Showing posts with label fingerloop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fingerloop. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 11, 2019

100 Days of SCA Service


I began the 100 Days of SCA Service challenge with low expectation of actually being able to complete it. After all, I don't do heraldic consultations every day. There's only so much commenting to be done in OSCAR. Archery season is over for the year, so I'm not marshaling. How would I come up with something to do every single day?

Making largesse became the glaringly obvious answer. Hats, medallion cords, pouches, balls for the toy chest, wire-wrapped rings. Quick and easy projects--just one a day has left me with quite a stash to donate to barony/kingdom in the coming months.

Day 100 is next Tuesday. I can't believe I've made it!

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Laurel Quest: Sigrid

At Pennsic last year, there was one night early in War Week when the air quality was particularly atrocious. This, of course, brought on an attack of my chronic bronchitis. I was utterly miserable, and spent most of my last two days of war sleeping in a slouch chair. My good friend Aelfgar helped ease my suffering with assorted medications and gentle care, and I was very grateful for him.

Imagine my dismay, then, when I learned that upon returning home from Pennsic, he also fell ill. So did the other members of his household. So not only was I sick, but I was also Patient Zero.

Aelfgar's lady, Mistress Sigrid Briansdotter, turned this unfortunate turn of events into a fun learning opportunity. She issued me a challenge: create for her household a charm or talisman to protect them from the Evil Eye. In exchange, she said, I might ask a boon of her as well.

Well.

I had *heard* the term "Evil Eye" before, but that was literally all I knew about it. So I began to research. Many rabbit holes later, I settled on making not just one talisman, but a different one for each member of the household, inspired by their different personas.

I learned a LOT ... not just about the Evil Eye and folk cures, but also about the medieval understanding of anatomy and vision (and when you understand that, it's easy to see why they believed in things like the Evil Eye and gazing at idols). Additionally, I learned a lot about myself as an artisan--particularly that I need to practice WAY more discipline when it comes to completing projects in a timely manner. I think the boon I will ask of Sigrid will be forgiveness for the length of time she's had to wait!

For Sigrid, I made a Viking Wire Weave chain with a lunula pendant, based on a pendant found at Birka.

For Aelfgar, I made a leather flacket and bartered for three "silver" coins from three different English monarchs.

For Corun, I braided a six-strand, red, cotton cord.



Here's the documentation I sent along with the items I made:

Medieval Science and How it Relates to the Evil Eye

    To understand the nearly-universal dread fascination with the power of the Evil Eye throughout medieval Europe, it helps to understand how academics of the time believed the senses operated.  Medieval scholars had located the centers of sensory perception in the brain, but they believed the five senses were active entities that conveyed external stimuli to other, internal “senses”--common sense, imagination, judgement, memory, and fantasy. With regard specifically to vision, some theorized that a person’s eyes emitted rays towards a viewed object, while others believed objects emitted rays towards the eyes. In either circumstance, these rays could influence both the viewer and the object.

    According to Augustine’s theory of vision, the life-fire within a person’ body--the same fire that animates and warms--is collected with unique intensity behind the eyes. For an object to be seen by a viewer, this fire must be projected in the form of a ray that is focused on the object, thereby establishing a two-way street along which the attention and energy of the viewer passes to touch its object. A representation of this object in turn returns to the eyes and is bonded to the soul and retained in the memory. This strong visual experience could be either negative (contamination by a dangerous or unsightly visual object) or positive (as in the miraculous power of an icon, when assiduously gazed upon, to heal one’s disease).

    Popular beliefs and practices of the time support the conclusion that medieval people considered visual experience particularly powerful for one’s good or ill. It is easy to understand, then, why the belief in the Evil Eye persisted from classical times to the sixteenth century and beyond. It was thought of as a maleficent visual ray of potentially lethal strength. A person who had the Evil Eye could reportedly touch and poison the soul or body of an enemy.

    Defenses against the Evil Eye were numerous and varied, as were cures for people already afflicted. Gestures, incantations, talismans and amulets, and even planting specific herbs and vegetables on one’s property were among the protections people practiced.
Examples of the Evil Eye Throughout the SCA Period

    Belief in the power of the Evil Eye is documented even in the Bible itself. In the Book of Judges, camels are described as having “ornaments like the moon” hung around the neck for protection. Half moons have long been considered among the most potent of amulets against the Evil Eye.

    Among the Greeks and Romans, statues of Nemesis were adored to save worshipers from fascination. The Romans also wore crescent moon pendants and even phallic adornments as protective amulets.

In 842 A.D., a monk of Monte Cassimo named Erchempert recorded, of a conversation with Landulf, Bishop of Capua, that the Bishop claimed whenever he met a monk’s eyes, something unlucky happened.

    In England during the Black Death, it was widely believed that a glance from a sick person’s distorted eyes would communicate the infection to those on whom it fell.

    In 1603, Martin Delrio, Jesuit of Louvain, published six books. In them, he writes that Maleficum existed, their powers derived of a pact with the devil, and that they infected others with evil by looking upon them with evil intent.

Persona-Inspired Remedies

Lunula (Sigrid)

    Crescent-shaped Lunulae date back to Roman times, when they were worn by young girls as talismen of protecting against assorted ailments, including the Evil Eye. They have often been found in women’s graves from Birka to Russia, and are still worn in parts of the world today.

    Because Sigrid is Swedish, the find from Birka caught my attention for this project. Lunula pendants were worn in particular by women of the era as talismans of fertility, female strength, and luck. It seems likely that this practice came via trade contact with the Slavic world. Pendants of this design have been found in Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia, Poland, Hungary, Germany, Finland, Russia, and of course in Birka, Sweden. These granulated pendants were sometimes cast, while other times they were stamped. The were worn as a single pendant on a chain, or as one of many adornments on the festoons between turtle brooches.

    The lunula pendant for Sigrid is a replica of a tenth century amulet, cast in bronze. It is suspended from a double-weave Viking knit chain woven of 28-gauge bronze wire.




Red String (Corun)

    In the whole of the British Isles, the majority of Evil Eye protections and remedies seem to be of the “use what we have around the farm” variety. Onions and various bits of common animals were carried as talismans. The crescent-shaped pendants were also favored, undoubtedly a remnant of the Roman occupation. The most common remedy recorded, however, seems to have been the tying of a simple string around one’s neck. Accounts differ as to the specifics--color, ply, material, number of knots, and incantations spoken while tying the string all varied. The most frequently mentioned color is red, with green and multi-colored strings being favored as well. Where specific ply count is recorded,  three-ply is what was used. The number three may have been significant to the protective and healing properties, as accounts often recorded either three knots tied in the string, or the string being wound three times around the neck of the afflicted.

    These strings were commonly called sreang a chronachaidh, or snathahm cronachaidh (string or thread of hurting).

    Corun’s string is a six-strand braid of red cotton. It should be worn touching the skin and, according to some accounts, tucked out of sight beneath his clothing.


Water and a Silver Coin (Aelfgar)

    Also seemingly from the “use what we have around the farm” category comes a practice that appears to have been specific to Anglo-Saxon England: anointing the afflicted with fresh water that had been poured over a silver coin. Fresh water and a silver coin were frequent ingredients in other remedies of the time (a treatment for cataracts, for example, called for fresh water to be steeped with a silver coin and blades of grass). To cure an Evil Eye affliction, fresh water that has been poured over a silver coin should then be rubbed on the patient’s eyes.

Aelfgar’s hand-struck “silver” (they’re actually pewter) coins are from the reigns of Edward the Confessor (my own personal patron saint); Harold Godwinson, the last Saxon King of England; and William the Conqueror, the first Norman King of England.

It seemed impractical to try and send fresh water--instead, I have provided a sturdy leather vessel in which Aelfgar may collect and store water at need. This flacket is sealed inside and out with beeswax and is safe for drinking water and other cool, non-alcoholic beverages from. The stopper will prevent splash-back as the flacket is carried, but it will leak if the flask is inverted. It is secured with a cotton fingerloop braid cord in Aelfgar’s heraldic colors. The carrying strap is hand-woven cotton, also heraldically-inspired. It’s Kumihimo, which wouldn’t have been known in England during Aelfgar’s time. None of the fingerloop braids I tried made a strap in a sufficient width for this purpose, so I improvised (or cheated…) a little.


Works Cited

"Coin." British Museum. Accessed September 15, 2017. http://britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1072750&partId=1&searchText=Edward the Confessor&images=true&page=1.

“Coin.” British Museum. Accessed September 15, 2017. http://britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1086898&partId=1&searchText=William+the+Conqueror&images=true&page=1.

“Coin.” British Museum. Accessed September 15, 2017. http://britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1089605&partId=1&searchText=coin+Harold&images=true&page=1.

Elworthy, Frederick Thomas. The Evil Eye: The Classic Account of an Ancient Superstition. Mineola, N.Y: Dover Publications, 2004.

Iona McCleery; A sense of the past: exploring sensory experience in the pre-modern world, Brain, Volume 132, Issue 4, 1 April 2009, Pages 1112-1117, https://doi.org/10.1093/brain/awp020

Maclagan, Robert Craig. Evil eye in the western Highlands. London: D. Nutt, 1902.

Oakseed, Trobere. "Leatherworking II." The Compleat Anachronist, no. 18 (March 1985): 38-42.

"Ornaments of Copper and Alloys, Part 2." Pycтpaнa. October 11, 2007. Accessed September 15, 2017. http://xn--80aa2bkafhg.xn--p1ai/article.php?nid=28038.

Robinson, Wayne. "Flackets - the Other Leather Bottle." The Reverend's Big Blog of Leather (blog), May 6, 2010. Accessed September 26, 2017. https://leatherworkingreverend.wordpress.com/2010/05/06/flackets-the-other-leather-bottle/.

Translation of Excerpts from
“Ornaments of Copper and Alloys, Part 2”
Привески играли роль не просто украшений, но в значительной степени амулетов-оберегов, они должны были охранять их обладателей от злых духов. К оберегам относят такие типы привесок, как зооморфные, миниатюрные предметы быта и орудия, лунницы и др. Наиболее распространенной и древней формой привесок была круглая, олицетворяющая солнце.
The pendants played the role of not just decorations, but largely amulets-charms, they had to protect their owners from evil spirits. The amulets include such types of pendants as zoomorphic, miniature objects of life and tools, lunettes, etc. The most widespread and ancient form of pendants was a round, personifying the sun.
Лунницы - привески в виде полумесяца, символизирующие луну, - типичное и наиболее распространенное общеславянское украшение. Находки их известны в Югославии, Чехословакии, Польше, Венгрии, Германии, Финляндии, Швеции (Арциховский А.В., 1946. С. 88). Б.А. Рыбаков писал: «Если руководствоваться мифологией, то их (лунницы) следует считать принадлежностью девичьего убора, так как Селена - богиня Луны - была покровительницей девушек» (Рыбаков Б.А., 1971. С. 17). На Руси лунницы получили широкое распространение уже в X в. и просуществовали вплоть до середины XIV в. Специальное исследование этим украшениям посвятила В.В. Гольмстен, разработавшая их типологию и хронологию, основываясь на материалах собрания исторического музея (Гольмстен В.В., 1914. С. 90).
Lunnitsa - pendants in the form of a crescent moon, symbolizing the moon - a typical and most common Slavic adornment. Their finds are known in Yugoslavia, Czechoslovakia, Poland, Hungary, Germany, Finland, Sweden (Artsikhovsky AV, 1946. S. 88). BA Rybakov wrote: "If you follow the mythology, then their (lunnitsa) should be considered a part of the maiden's dress, since Selena - the goddess of the moon - was the patroness of the girls" (Rybakov BA, 1971. S. 17). In Russia, lunettes became widespread in the X century. and existed until the middle of the XIV century. A special study devoted to these ornaments was made by V.V. Holmsten, who developed their typology and chronology, based on the materials of the collection of the historical museum (Holmsten VV, 1914. P. 90).
Тисненые серебряные широкорогие лунницы, покрытые зернью в виде вписанных треугольников и зигзагов, окружающих выпуклые полушария, известны в древностях Великой Моравии (Декан У., 1976. С. 157). Они входили в состав украшений знати как великоморавской державы, так и Киевской Руси. Подобные привески-лунницы хорошо известны по кладам, зарытым в Х-ХI вв. (Корзухина Г.Ф., 1954. С. 88. Табл. VIII, 32, 34). Отдельные экземпляры встречаются и в богатых курганных погребениях Х-ХI вв. около крупных городов (табл. 54,3). В подражание зерненым лунницам изготовляли литые бронзовые лунницы, полностью воспроизводящие узор штампованно-зерненых изделий (табл. 54, 2). Такие лунницы встречены в курганах Х-ХI - начала ХII в. почти всех древнерусских племен, а также во многих городах.
Embossed silver wide-brimmed lunnits covered with granules in the form of inscribed triangles and zigzags surrounding the convex hemispheres are known in the antiquities of Great Moravia (Dean U., 1976. P. 157). They were part of the jewelry of the nobility as a Great Moravian state, and Kievan Rus. Such pendant lunnitsa are well known for the treasures buried in the 10th-11th centuries. (Korzukhina GF, 1954. S. 88. Table VIII, 32, 34). Individual specimens are also found in rich burial burials of the 10th-11th centuries. around large cities (Table 54.3). In imitation of grain lunnits made cast bronze lunettes, completely reproducing the pattern of stamped-grained products (Table 54, 2). Such lunnits were found in the barrows of the 10th-early 12th century. almost all ancient Russian tribes, as well as in many cities.
Например, в Новгороде такая лунница найдена в слое ниже 28-го яруса, датирующегося по данным дендрохронологии 953 г. Своеобразной разновидностью широкорогих лунниц являются образцы, украшенные по концам, а иногда и в середине тремя кружочками (табл. 54, 1). Эти лунницы также имеют прототипы в великомо-равских древностях (Декап У., 1976. № 153-155), а в восточнославянских памятниках получают распространение в Х-ХI вв. В Новгороде сделана интересная находка такой лунницы в слое конца X в. вместе с ожерельем из ластовых глазчатых бусин желтого и черного цвета (Седова М.В., 1981. Рис. 6, 6). Подобные бусы датируются по многочисленным аналогиям в древнерусских памятниках X - началом XI в. Район наибольшего распространения широкорогих литых лунниц - Ленинградская, Калининская, Смоленская, Брянская области. К середине XII в. лунницы этого типа выходят из употребления.
For example, in Novgorod such a lunette is found in a layer below the 28th tier, dated according to the dendrochronology data of 953. A specimen decorated at the ends and sometimes in the middle by three circles is a peculiar species of broad-shouldered lunnits (Table 54, 1). These lunnitses also have prototypes in the Great-European antiquities (Dekap U., 1976. № 153-155), and in the East Slavic monuments they spread in the 10th-11th centuries. In Novgorod, an interesting find of such a lunette in the late-10th century layer was made. together with a necklace of finely-colored eye beads of yellow and black color (Sedova MV, 1981. Fig. 6, 6). Such beads date back to numerous analogies in Old Russian monuments X - the beginning of the XI century. The region of the largest distribution of wide-necked cast lunnits is the Leningrad, Kalinin, Smolensk and Bryansk regions. By the middle of the XII century. lunnitsy of this type are out of use.
Уже в XI в. появляется новый тип лунниц - узкогорлые, или круторогие (табл. 54, 6-8). Орнаментация их разнообразна: это и точечный подражающий зерни орнамент по контуру привески (табл. 54, 6), и глазковый орнамент (табл. 54, 8), и соединение того и другого (табл. 54, 7), и треугольники ложной зерни (табл. 54, 9). Круторогие лунницы распространены были на всей территории северной и южной Руси. Время их наибольшего распространения - ХI-ХII вв. Именно тогда создавались и такие своеобразные формы, как узкорогие язычковые (табл. 54,10) лунницы и лунницы, подражающие славянским, но изготовленные в финской среде методом литья по восковой модели (табл. 54,11).
Already in the XI century. there is a new type of lunnits - narrow-necked, or steep-necked (Table 54, 6-8). Their ornamentation is diverse: it is a dot pattern imitating the grain along the contour of the pendant (Table 54, 6), and eye ornamentation (Tables 54, 8), and the combination of both (Table 54, 7), and triangles of false grain Table 54, 9). Twisting lunnits were common throughout the northern and southern Russia. The time of their greatest distribution - XI-XII centuries. It was then that such peculiar forms were created as well, such as the narrow-horned tabernacle (Table 54, 10), lunnits and lunnits imitating the Slavic, but made in the Finnish environment by casting using the wax model (Table 54, 11).


Extant Examples

Silver Coin: Edward the Confessor. British Museum.

Silver Coin: Harold II. British Museum.

Silver Coin: William the Conqueror. British Museum.

10th c. Lunula pendant.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Class Handout: Two Strings At Once (Fingerloop Braid)

Fingerloop braid: Two Strings At Once
Lady Shannon inghaen Bhriain uí Dhuilleaín
shannon.dhuilleain@gmail.com
http://shannonofalltrades.blogspot.com

In learning and teaching Fingerloop Braid techniques, I have been heavily influenced by the notations and directions used in Compleat Anachronist issue #108: Fingerloop Braids.

Each step in a pattern consists of three essential pieces of information: the finger moving, the opposing finger being interacted with, and the nature of that movement and interaction. A few simple shorthand notations are used consistently throughout the patterns.

First, the fingers. The pointer, middle, ring, and pinky fingers are labeled A through D (the thumb is not considered in any pattern I have yet encountered). The hands are labeled L for left, and R for right. Therefore, a simple two letter combination tells you precisely which finger is being discussed.

Fingers can move through one or more other loops before interacting with the other hand; these directions will be written out in full in each pattern.

Loops may be taken “reversed” or “unreversed.” If it is taken “reversed,” it winds up on the new finger upside-down or flipped over, so that the strand that was above is now below.



For loops taken “unreversed,” the orientation is the same on the new finger as on the original.



The pattern we will cover today is “2 Strings Att Once.” A transcription of the directions was recorded by Greg Lindahl and then translated into modern English by Zoe Kuhn Williams.

The Transcription: “To make 2 strings att once. Take 3 boes on one hand and 2 on the other then worke through both boes taking the top of the loer fingers alike.”

The Translation: “To make 2 strings at once. Take 3 bowes on one hand and 2 on the other then work through both bowes taking the top of the lower fingers alike.”

Zoe then provides step-by-step instructions, based on this translation:

Place 1 bowe each on BCR and ABCL.
Move AR through BCR and take CL UNREV.
Walk down L bowes.
Move AL through BCL and take CR UNREV.
Walk down R bowes.
Repeat.

This pattern can be changed slightly to create a single, thicker string instead of two thin strings. Instead of taking CL and CR UNREV, you simply take them REV instead:

Place 1 bowe each on BCR and ABCL.
Move AR through BCR and take CL REV.
Walk down L bowes.
Move AL through BCL and take CR REV.
Walk down R bowes.
Repeat.

You can also combine the two patterns to create a string with buttonhole-like openings along its length. To do this, begin with the REV pattern for twenty repetitions or so, then switch to the UNREV for an equal number of repetitions. Continue to alternate until you've reached your desired length. The actual number of repetitions in each set will vary depending on how large or small you want the holes, and how much solid string space you want between them.


Resources

Kuhn Williams, Z., & Swales, L. (2000, July). Fingerloop Braid. Compleat Anachronist, (108).

Kuhn Williams, Z., & Swales, L. (n.d.). Fingerloop Braids. Retrieved September 14, 2016, from http://www.fingerloop.org/


Sunday, May 15, 2016

Nobelese Largesse Swap #10: Ambiance

After having so much fun with Swap #9, I jumped at the opportunity to participate in the Ambiance swap that was announced next! I was assigned to Lady Felicia FizMaurice, who lives in An Tir. I read through her completed questionnaire and took note of several things--items for the table, jewelry (but not rings), shades of blue, 1200-1400 period ...

I wound up doing three different items for Felicia. The first was a completely period blackjack--my first-ever attempt at using only beeswax to seal a mug.

The second item I made for her was a necklace. It is Viking wire weave, made of 26-gauge silver-enameled copper wire, woven in a double-weave pattern. It is finished off with end cones and a simple ring-and-bar clasp.








The last item I made was a small coin purse, based on a single extant example from the fourteenth century in the Bryggen Museum in Bergen, Norway. I'll go into this item in detail, because I've not previously recorded this process. I learned to make these purses from a class taught at Atlantian University by Mistress Sigrid Briansdotter.

Trying to track down information about the extant piece is frustrating. The museum does not seem to have an online gallery. Fortunately, other reenactors have made replicas of the purse and documented the process, and some of them even have photos they took when they visited the museum.

For my project, the body of the purse is made of split deerskin, cut in a circle the size of a dinner plate and pierced with threading holes--one hole every ten degrees in a small ring around the center and a larger ring near the edge. The small ring is three inches in diameter. The large ring is an inch from the edge of the leather.

The original purse was strung with leather cord, but I instead used blue fingerloop braid cord to give the purse just a small pop of color. 

The smaller circle that holds the bottom "cup" in place in the finished purse was threaded using what is known in embroidery as a "whipped running" stitch--first it is running-stitched, and then a second time around with the needle, whip-stitching into the thread of the running stitch rather than into the leather itself.

The outer circle is just threaded with a running stitch, and the loose ends of the cord are tied together. When the purse is gathered, it leaves a length of purse strings which can be affixed to the wearer's belt. 


I hope Lady Felicia likes her items!

Friday, February 5, 2016

Fingerloop Braid Experiment

Introduction

Fingerloop braiding was one of my very first art forms in the SCA. I learned the technique from Mistress Annora verch Llwyd Bryneirian during an Arts and Sciences meeting in 2004 in the Canton of Bard's Keep, Barony of Western Seas, Caid. Since then, I have obtained the Compleat Anachronist issue on Fingerloop braiding (issue #108) and attended various classes to learn specific patterns.

However, I wanted to continue to learn and grow in this art form. To do this, I decided I need to better understand how each strand in any given pattern moves. I decided to begin with my favorite pattern from the Compleat Anachronist, “A grene dorge of vj bowes.” When followed exactly, this pattern produces a flat cord with one color running down each side and two additional colors alternating down the center.

My first two examples simply eliminate one of the three colors from the pattern, leaving a single color down the middle bordered by a second color on each side. From there, I have rearranged which colors are placed on which fingers to start the weave, which has yielded some interesting—and beautiful—results.

These cords are all made from cotton crochet thread. In period, silk thread was heavily favored for fingerloop lacings. It is suspected that they were also made of linen to be used as ties for linen undergarments, but no known extant samples have been discovered. I have opted for cotton because it is readily available in a variety of colors and fairly inexpensive to acquire. I chose blue and white because these are the Baronial colors for the Barony of Lochmere, and I intend these cords to be a gift of largesse to Their Excellencies after this display.

Cord variations from a single pattern.

How It Was Done

The original instructions for this pattern are set in a manuscript now housed at the British Library, referred to as Harley Maunscript 2320. This manuscript is believed to be from circa 1450. The original text in English as transcribed by E.G. Stanley reads:

A grene dorge of v[j] bowes: Set 4 bowes of o colouur on B, C ry[3]t and B, C
lyft, and o bowe of anoþer colouur on D ry[3]t, and o bowe of anoþer colouur
on A lyft. Þen take wt A ri[3]t þorow B, C ry[3]t þe bowe of C lyft reuerced. þen
lowe þy bowe of B lift vnto C. Þen schal B lyft take þorow C lyft þe bowe C
ry[3]t reuerced. Þen lowe þy ry[3]t bowes. Þen schal A lyft change wt D ry[3]t,
&cra.


The redaction of the instructions by Lois Zwales as presented in the Compleat Anachronist issue reads as follows:

A green dorge of 6 bowes: Set 4 bowes of one color on B, C right and B, C left,
and one bowe of another color on D right, and one bowe of another color on A
left. Then take with A right through B, C right the bowe of C left reversed. Then
low thy bowe of B left onto C. Then shall B left take through C left the bowe C
right reversed. Then low thy right bowes. Then shall A left change with D right,
etc.

This diagram of the pattern, which I have modified from the one on www.fingerloop.org, shows the original pattern. To read the moves, consider that A is your pointer finger, B your middle finger, C your ring finger, and D your pinky. R is right, and L is left. Therefore, AR is your pointer finger on your right hand, and so forth. This version of the diagram is shown with no colors specified; it shows only the movements each bowe and finger makes.




Now, to create the cord with blue running down the center bordered by white, I set the bowes up as follows:

AL and DR: Blue
BCL and BCR: White

Visually, that looks like this:



To create the cord with a white center bordered by blue, I reversed the color setup.


We can see that the bowes on AL and DR are the only two that make up the center stripe of the cord. The other four, then, create the borders. But how, exactly, do they weave together to make those borders?

I began setting the colors up in random starting arrangements, to see what might emerge.

Variation One


This cord is set up as follows:
ABCL Blue
BCDR White



After move three, the colors have not returned to their “home positions” as they did in the previous cord. Also, because AL and DR are not the same color, we do not find a solid stripe running down the center of the cord.

Variation Two


This cord is set up as follows:

ABL and DR: White
CL and BCR: Blue



Once again the colors are not back at home at the end of the first round of moves, but AL and DR are the same color and so we do see the central stripe emerge along the length of the cord.

Variation Three



This cord is set up as follows:

ABL and CDR: White
CL and BR: Blue




Variation Four



This cord is set up as follows:

AL: Blue
BCL and BCDR: White



For this pattern, the lone blue bowe stays in position until Move Three, when it goes to DL. In the following round, it moves back to AL. This creates the alternating white and blue stripe down the middle of the cord, which when bordered by white as well comes out looking like a row of tiny blue hearts. I think, of all the experimental cords from this pattern, this is my favorite variation.


Conclusion and Where to Go Next

By altering not the pattern of the weave itself but rather simply the starting positions of the colors, we can create a variety of beautiful cords. Was this done in Period? Maybe. I'd venture to say probably, because it's practical—one would only have to learn a single set of movements to be able to create several different cords.

To truly understand where each bowe goes at each step of the weave, I think I need to do one more experiment—one in which each bowe is a different color. While I'm sure the final cord of such a setup will not be visually pleasing in the least, it will allow me to see exactly where the bowe from BL is in the second, third, fourth, and future rounds through the three moves.

After that experiment, I will begin the process all over again with another pattern!

Works Cited
Primary Source:

Manuscript Harley 2320, circa 1450. In the British Library, with scans on the web at http://www.bl.uk/manuscripts/Viewer.aspx?ref=harley_ms_2320_f052r.

Secondary Sources:

Swales, Lois, and Zoe Kuhn Williams. "Fingerloop Braids." Compleat Anachronist, no. 108 (July 2000).

Swales, Lois, and Zoe Kuhn Williams. "Fingerloop Braids." Fingerloop Braids. Accessed February 04, 2016. http://www.fingerloop.org/.


verch Llwyd Bryneirian, Annora. "Beginner Fingerloop Braiding." Lecture, A&S Day, Canton of Bard's Keep, 2004.

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Entered in:
Kingdom A&S Festival, Atlantia--Lochmere Baronial Display